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Whenever compiling a list of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known high-end names. Yet, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

An Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors totally shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing spot, has retained much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate space,” comments the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is most important is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this gastronomic triumph.